What I wore in Venice

What I did, and a bit of Burano

What I wore in Venice: I could have just taken less clothes than I did - to be honest, I’d have happily worn my jeans every day and pulled my dress out for a dinner and the opera. Having said that, I could equally have substituted the long knit skirt for the jeans.

I took my old Ganni viscose dress, with a Toast wool and cotton cardigan to go over it. The cardigan and boots stopped the whole look being too formal, without any of it feeling too casual either (this dress is one that I can wear for work, but it also lends itself to being smartened up. I probably wouldn’t buy it now because it’s viscose (and I’m a little tired of how Ganni still relies on manmade fibres while still riding the sustainability train), but I have to say it has served me very well, and I never tire of it).

I wore my Artknit merino skirt on the train up to Venice. It has a matching sweater - which I left at home - and while I love wearing the two pieces as a set, I wanted to bring cashmere sweaters on this trip. I traveled in an Artknit crewneck, with my Liberty shirt underneath. The shirt was a lockdown buy I think, whereas the knit pieces were from last winter (skirt) and last summer (sweater). My Grenson boots are on their third or fourth winter, and I wear them almost every day in the colder months.

I also had with me an oversized Raey sweater from the Matches closing down sale. It’s an XXS, the armpits come down to my waist and the sweater itself comes almost to my knees. I really thought it was too enormous when I got it, and I would struggle to wear it, but it’s hardly been off my back at weekends. Both cashmere sweaters are hugely soft and warm. I wear a long-sleeved top underneath but even without, I’m cosy.

My jeans came to me from my daughter who got them from a friend. They are Diesel, and I think they may be men’s. I love them because they fit me perfectly - they are just right on the hips and not tight on the waist. They are also a very dark wash which always feels a bit smarter, and they have generally taken over as my favourites out of all the several pairs of straight leg jeans I have (all my jeans are straight leg. I’m not a fashionable denim person, in fact I’m just not a denim person so it’s a mystery to me why I have so many pairs).

On top of the whole lot I took my mother’s old Armani puffer coat. I don’t know when she got it but I suspect it was when puffers started becoming mainstream, as it is cut like a coat rather than a glorified parka.

And I had a couple of scarves, some gloves and - thank god - my beret¹. I’m not a hat person unless I’m in Venice in February.

What I did in Venice: I was in Venice Monday to Friday, and I visited:

• The Peggy Guggenheim. I am not a huge fan of surrealism or futurism, but there are some works in this collection by artists I love, so it’s always worth a visit.

• La Fenice (Rigoletto, which I actually studied at school, and we had a field trip to Naples to see it. Obviously I remember nothing except La Donna è Mobile).

• The islands of Mazzorbo, Torcello and Burano, and then Giudecca another day

• Osteria Testiere where I always have my birthday dinner.

None of the above for the first time, but I also visited Pasticceria Rizzardini (recommended by

Jo Thompson

) for the most amazing frittele (also sampled a number of frittele from a number of other establishments).

Every time I go to Venice I love it more, and it makes me feel annoyed that Rome just doesn’t try a bit harder to be nice. In Rome we like to peddle the narrative that northerners are all snobby and standoffish and talk in funny accents, unlike charmingly salt of the earth, rough diamond, cheeky chappy Romans. It was a huge shock to me the first time I went to Milan and found that people were friendly and polite, even in the most touristy spots. And the same goes forVenice - despite the huge influx of constant tourists, they are delightful. Plus the food is great and the public toilets are spotless.

Anyway. I became obsessed with taking pictures of people’s curtains on Burano. Burano used to be famous for lace in the same way that its neighbour Murano is famous for glass-blowing, but now it’s known for its beautiful painted houses. They ensure a steady stream of tourists, but I can’t imagine what it’s like having people standing around taking pics of your home all the time.

But - what would you do? Would you match your curtain to your paint, your shutters, or go rogue? And what colours would you go for?

And what would your colour scheme be?

1. Mine is apple green, but I really wouldn’t mind a pink one!